黎锦艺术深深植根于中国文化，将传承的技艺与对创新和创造的不懈追求相结合。黎锦织工张潮瑛致力于弘扬黎锦技艺，改善她所在社区的生活，培养未来的黎锦技艺传承人，同时保护他/她们的知识产权。 

The art of Li Brocade is deeply rooted in Chinese culture, combining inherited skills with the continuous pursuit of innovation and creativity. Chaoying Zhang, a Li weaver, is committed to promoting this craft and improving the livelihoods of her community, and training future generations of weavers in the art of brocade, while safeguarding their intellectual property. 

三千多年来，织锦艺术一直是中国海南岛原住民黎族的文化的一部分。“黎族”划分为侾、杞、本地、美孚和加茂黎等五个分支。每个分支的服装、设计和配饰都各具特色，反映了他/她们深厚的文化底蕴和久经考验的审美标准。几百年来，黎族人民积累了一整套技艺，包括纺、织、染、绣。黎锦手工技艺于2006年被正式列入中国国家级非物质文化遗产名录，并于2009年被列入联合国教科文组织急需保护的非物质文化遗产名录。

For over 3,000 years, the art of brocade weaving has been part of the culture of the Li people, who are indigenous to China?s Hainan Island. The term “Li” refers to a number of different groups, including Gai, Ji, Bendi, Meifu and Jiamao. Each group has distinctive garments, designs and accessories that reflect their deep cultural heritage and aesthetic standards, which have endured the test of time. For centuries, the Li people have developed a comprehensive array of techniques that encompass spinning, dyeing, weaving and embroidery. In 2006, these artisanal skills were officially recognized by the National List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of China and were later included in the UNESCO List of Intangible Cultural Heritage in Need of Urgent Safeguarding in 2009.

Empowering communities 

世代相传的技艺是这一古老工艺的命脉。然而，近几十年来，从事这门手艺的妇女人数不断减少，对黎族传统纺织技术和习俗的延续构成了威胁。为了确保黎锦工艺长盛不衰，张潮瑛从祖母那里学会了如何织造黎锦，在父母和当地政府的支持下，她于2016年创立了白沙灿然黎锦手工艺术专业合作社。她说：“对我来说，向人们宣传海南黎锦文化的独特魅力至关重要。”

The lifeblood of this ancient craft has been the transmission of skills across generations. In recent decades, however, the number of women practicing the craft has declined, posing a threat to the continuity of traditional Li textile techniques and practices. To help ensure the craft thrives for years to come, Chaoying Zhang, who learned how to weave Li Brocade from her grandmother, established Baisha Canran Li Brocade Handicrafts in 2016 with the backing of her parents and the local government. “It is crucial for me to raise awareness about the unique appeal of Li Brocade culture in Hainan,” she says. 

为确保黎锦技艺的传承，白沙灿然黎锦手工艺术专业合作社举办了公开培训课程，提供关于这项技艺的实践指导和实干经验。“我所在的社区将村里的妇女集合在一起，定期举办传统黎锦技艺公益培训班。经过培训合格的学员可以领取物料在家里制作黎锦。这样，她们在使用物料和图案时，就能遵循我们的标准化规范和程序，以及非常成熟的制作方法。这样，她们制作的产品就能达到我们的质量标准和规范，”张潮瑛解释道。

To ensure the preservation of Li Brocade skills, Baisha Canran Li Brocade Handicrafts organizes public training courses that offer practical guidance and hands-on experience of the craft. “My community brings together women from the villages and regularly organizes public training sessions on the traditional skills of Li Brocade. Qualified trainees receive materials to make Li Brocade at home. This allows them to follow our standardized specifications and procedures when using materials and patterns, and wellestablished production practices. In this way, the products they make meet our quality standards and specifications,” explains Chaoying Zhang.

张潮瑛认识到吸引年轻人加入黎锦织造的重要性，只有这样才能确保这项技艺能够继续蓬勃发展，她还开始在抖音上分享关于她的设计的短视频，抖音是中国最受Z世代欢迎的社交媒体平台之一。张潮瑛还定期举办线上和线下活动，激励年轻人参与黎锦工艺的传承。

Recognizing the importance of attracting young people to the craft to ensure it continues to thrive, Chaoying Zhang also started sharing short videos of her designs on Douyin, one of the most popular social media platforms in China among GenZers. She also organizes regular online and offline events to inspire young people to engage in preserving Li Brocade craftsmanship.

知识产权对黎锦的作用

The role of IP for Li Brocade 

知识产权在保护和促进黎族人民的非物质文化遗产方面发挥着至关重要的作用。在当地社区、中央政府和产权组织的支持下，各种举措成功地提高了手工艺人对知识产权如何支持其工作的认识，使其能够从手工艺中获得收入，提升技能，支持手工艺的长期发展。

IP rights play a crucial role in preserving and promoting the intangible cultural heritage of the Li people. Various initiatives supported by the local community, central government and WIPO, have succeeded in raising awareness among artisans of how IP rights can support their work, enabling them to generate income from their craft, hone their skills and support the craft?s long-term development.

“东方黎锦”现已成为注册地理标志和商标。用于制作黎锦的一些织造设备已获得专利和实用新型，部分黎锦作品还受到版权保护。 

“Oriental Li Brocade” is now a registered geographical indication (GI) and trademark. Patents and utility models have been secured for some weaving equipment used to produce Li Brocade, and selected Li Brocade works are also protected by copyright. 

“通过利用这些知识产权，黎锦织造者能够创造出新的设计并改进织造技术。一些织造者甚至建立了自己的企业，营销和销售自己的产品。”张潮瑛解释说。 

“By utilizing these IP rights, Li Brocade weavers have been able to generate new designs and improve their weaving techniques. Some weavers have even established their own businesses to market and sell their products,” Chaoying Zhang explains. 

通过战略性地使用知识产权，黎锦织造者还能够确保其工艺的质量和真实性。这些权利使他/她们能够保护自己的作品不被未经许可地使用或歪曲。 

Through strategic use of IP rights, weavers of Li Brocade are also able to ensure the quality and authenticity of their craft. These rights enable them to defend themselves against any unauthorized usage or misrepresentation of their work. 

张潮瑛尤其热衷于向黎族年轻人传授知识产权知识，她认为这对后代保持和发扬黎锦传统至关重要。她解释道：“知识产权有助于保护这一领域的创新和技术进步，确保传统织造技艺得以传承和发扬光大，造福子孙后代。”

Chaoying Zhang is particularly keen to equip young Li people with knowledge about IP rights, which she believes is crucial for sustaining and advancing Li Brocade traditions for future generations. “IP helps to protect the innovations and technical advancements made in the field, ensuring that traditional weaving techniques can be preserved and enhanced for future generations,” she explains.